Drama, suspense and a star-studded cast. All that before any models started making their way down the catwalk. Milan Fashion Week will go down as one for the ages. Even the constant wet weather couldn’t dampen spirits for womenswear next spring and summer.
After New York and London, it’s the third and penultimate stop on the heavyweight tour, in terms of status of course, and for some, what was seen on the Italian runways has made it favourite for the title; but Paris gets its shot from Monday.
There were a string of unforgettable moments in Milan, with something truly for everyone. Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2024 show was the talk of the town for at least two days due the presence of several supermodels off the catwalk.
A hush fell over the room as the front-row filled signaling the show was about to begin: Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista and Kate Moss had taken their seats. Backstage, it was still a murmur of activity.
Kim Jones’ collection was clean and crisp. Shapely and close-fitting monochrome dresses had peekaboo cutouts.
Leather added substance: short colour-block jackets paired with a matching knit mini-skirt. Contrasting gloves finished many looks. Bags were mostly held as if clutches; a tiny, flat bag dangled from gloved hands.
Diesel and denim
Diesel’s open-air extravaganza also set tongues wagging as the concert-style presentation helped generate an electric atmosphere despite heavy rain.
Designer Glenn Martens’ Spring-Summer 2024 co-ed collection combined early 2000s standards – cargo pants, bra tops, hoodies – with cutting-edge textile innovations that made it sometimes difficult to interpret what was coming down the runway. The rain only enhanced the mystery.
The technology going into the textiles is so cutting-edge that brand owner Renzo Rosso said that part of the production site is sealed off from the rest to protect the secrecy.
Adventurous Armani
Tom Ford returns to Milan roots
Peter Hawkings made his runway debut as creative director of the Tom Ford brand in Milan where he started working with Ford at Gucci 25 years ago.
His collection was inspired by Donyale Luna, a Detroit-born Black supermodel who was a muse to Andy Warhol and Richard Avedon.
Dolce & Gabbana’s luxurious lingerie
The highlight of the week for many fashionistas was Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana’s latest collection on Saturday, exploring to the tiniest detail the beauty and artisanal qualities of corsetry, and all manner of lingerie.
In keeping with a bodycon trend that has made corsets, bra tops and tiny culottes part of an everyday wardrobe, some looks came down the runway completely al fresco, with perhaps a sheer stocking and garter.
